Why I hate it when brands use the work of dead artists
I recently started a new job as an art history teacher at a fashion school.
One of the courses I’ve created focuses on the links between art and fashion. So I’ll be talking about how art and design have been inspired by each other, how they collaborate and the brands that use artists’ work in their collections.
I understand why artists like to collaborate with brands. It must be incredible to mix your world with someone else’s, and potentially see your art on clothes, accessories…
Yet, while working on this course, a kind of anger resurfaced in me. I’ve always hated to see fashion brands using the work of deceased artists, like Keith Haring’s work used by H&M, or Van Gogh’s paintings used by Rodarte, for example.
Some artists’ heirs may think it’s a good idea to work with a fashion brand, as it can make the artist’s work more popular and accessible, even though many people will only buy and wear these clothes because they think it will make them look cool (LOL). However, I still think that these brands are making money off the backs of artists, without knowing for sure whether the artists would have agreed. If we use Keith Harring as an example, I think people should read his diary, as we can see that using KH’s work without his permission gradually upset him. I can’t help imagining that he wouldn’t be very happy, plus he didn’t really like the consumer society.
A few years ago, I read a book containing letters that Frida Kahlo had sent to her family, friends and doctors. In many of them, she asked for money. I know she lived a luxurious life, but I still find it very annoying, even frustrating, to see so many brands using her work and image. But let’s be clear: I’m no one to say what these artists would have thought.
Frida Kahlo
We can’t stop these brands from using the work of deceased artists, but I think they should be more interested in promoting emerging artists. This would allow the artists’ art to be showcased and their careers to progress. They would obviously be grateful to the brands, and the latter would be perceived as less egocentric and less exploitative of the work. Let’s never forget that artists need to earn money to live.
